With any form of aesthetics the overall appearance must fit together; things must be coherent. This is less a rule than a meta-rule. We know our mind expects things to fit together, but the rules about how things actually do fit together are never stable. In the end we judge things intuitively, though we might find some experience helps us notice the patterns.

• Belts should be reasonably thin and the same colour as the shoes. Wide belts only worked on some 1970s fashions and even then it wasn’t on formal suits.
• Ties should be darker than the shirt, but not necessarily than the suit itself. Tie bars should be reasonably narrow.
• With a three piece suit the vest should be unbuttoned at the base.
• Never use the pockets, except for contents that are completely flat. Never let the pockets get stretched.
• Remove the basting that is on some suits. This is the temporary stitching that holds the vent/flaps in place.
• The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel.
• The tie should reach down so that it just barely touches the trouser waistband.
• The shirt cuffs should extend about ½ an inch form the suit.
• The suit jacket should just barely cover the fly of the trousers when standing.

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A good suit is not worn in isolation. A good shirt, as well as shoes, belts and other accessories, are essential. Getting the right shirt underneath the suit tends to be something that is overlooked.

Some men make the mistake of thinking that the shirt is mostly hidden, and they can be lax about the fit. But while most of the shirt is hidden, its effect on the suit is not. Areas to watch out for are:

• These are noticeable. A tight collar quickly becomes irritating, a loose one looks unstylish.

A collar can be adjusted slightly by moving the top button. Sometimes more dramatic alterations are necessary.

• Sleeves that are too long will protrude from the suit, and just ruin the whole effect.

A longer sleeve can easily be shortened by the tailor, but lengthening a sleeve is not an easy option.

• Excess fabric, especially around the waist. This is a common alteration; the extra fabric is removed from the back of the shirt.

Most men find that a shirt can be adapted to their build if it already fits in the essential areas. If the shirt fits across the width of the shoulders, which will not vary over time, the rest of the shirt can often be made to fit with only minor alterations. Occasionally, for some men’s builds, it is better to have the shirt made to measure.

Shirts must match the tie. We recommend some of the following combinations:

• A striped shirt with a solid colour tie that matches the stripes. Slight differences and contrasts are acceptable.
• A finely stripped shirt with a broadly stripped tie. Try vertical stripes on the shirt, and broad diagonal stripes on the tie.
• Fine vertical stripes on a shirt, and fine dot or patterns on the tie.
• A vivid tie works well with a plain coloured shirt, white, or pale blue or pink.
• Ties are almost always darker than the shirt. A white tie is about the only exception, and these are uncommon.
• Try a light colour shirt with a tie of the same colour, only darker. E.g.: a pink shirt with a near purple tie.
• Use a colour wheel to choose contrasting colours for ties and shirts, with the tie being more prominent.

Ultimately, the only thing that matters is that the combination works.

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Trench Coats have a military background. They developed from several other coats, such as the serge greatcoats, before being used in the First World War. The name and general style of the coat during this period carried over into civilian use. They are a very useful addition to a suit during some types of extreme weather.

One advantage of the large trench coat is that it can be worn over other clothing without any issues. This is undoubtedly part of the military appeal; a uniform could be kept neat and dry under a trench coat. This also works well for business suits. A trench coat keeps out the weather elements, leaving a suit well protected underneath.

Materials

Cotton Fabric

Though often cut in the same way as modern coats the early military coats were often made from cotton. This was inexpensive, durable and treated to be made water resistant. These coats were almost always military khaki in colour.

Wool Gabardine

This was a high end version of the coat. It is waterproof and has a warm silk lining, which is sometime removable. Initially only military officers could wear this, but modern trench coats are only a slight redesign of this classic garment.

Leather Coats

This is a modern variation, and probably the hardest wearing type. It is heavier, warmer and more durable than almost any other natural material. It also reasonably easy to maintain, not requiring dry cleaning. Unfortunately these are expensive, and can be associated with the uniform of gangsters and foreign spies. Otherwise, these may catch on as a classic modern alternative.

Modern trench coats are not a loose as old military ones. Their extra warmth means they don’t require additional layers underneath. As such, a trench coat is a useful item for suit owners when they require protection from any wet or cold weather. An umbrella and a good trench coat are all a suit owner need to have on hand. They offer protection and still manage to look quite stylish.

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Suits do not change too much over time. Or, more accurately, the details change a lot but the general suit keeps the same basic form.

A few recent stylistic fashions.

• Bold Patterns – The patterns have always been there, but the particular pattern keeps changing with the fashion of the day. Frustrating if a good suit is out of fashion.
• Slim lapels – More modern, but this varies over time.
• Slanted pocket – Also known as Hacking pockets, these were once only seen on bespoken suits. They can make the wearer look less mid-heavy; a matter of individual build and preference.
• Pick stitching. Most people don’t notice the stitching, and pick stitching is even more subtle than regular stitching. Again, this came from bespoken suits and found its way onto cheaper suits because it was considered more high quality. Nor too difficult with modern technology.

A few suit details consistent over the years.

• The pockets inside the jacket. The jacket once held a pocket watch and a wallet. The watch is now physically and functionally replaced by the cell-phone.
• The small pockets at the front, right of the trousers and inside the trouser main pocket. The front one is for small change. The inside pocket was for a watch.
• Solid colours – There have always been patterned suits, but the patterns keep going in and out of fashion. Black or solid dark blue have always looked classy and classic.
• Cuffs in pants – Tapered pants were fashionable for a while, but cuffs were always neat and acceptable. Often not directly noticed, but cuffs change the apparent length of your leg.
• Jacket centre vent – Vents stay because they let the jacket fit neatly while still giving you mobility. Some people prefer double vents, as slightly greater cost.
• 3 inch lapels – these just seem to look neither too old fashioned nor too far removed from modern fashions. Middle ground.
• The right fit – there have been trends towards baggy styles or super slim. Some individuals with the right build can look good with these variations, but the right fit for you always seems acceptable.

Half the concern with a suit is about whether to go for something timeless or follow present fashion. The other half is the suit’s quality. If you suit does stay in fashion the quality is worth the effort and expense. This mean you probably cannot buy off the rack (unless you are ideally proportioned), or that high end suits might need at least some alteration. But is you invest in a good fitting suit that is of respectable quality, and stay a little conservative with the style, you will get many years of low maintenance wear.

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